We all have that one last trip before the pandemic changed our lives. For us it was a city escape, casually extended from one weekend to five days. We wanted to see the monkeys, but since the slopes weren't that far, decided we would save on gas and catch two birds in one trip. For the long months ahead, it would be the sweetest memory of relaxed days in an alternative Japanese universe - Nagano. For many, Japan means Tokyo, perhaps Kansai (the region of Kyoto, Osaka and Nara), for some it would be also sushi and ramen. Few think of the beautiful winter slopes and gorgeous mountains (except for Fuji and except for Australian holidaymakers who seem to target Japan as their main ski destination). Yet, Japan's nature and wildlife has a lot to offer. Just about 4 hours driving from bustling megacity, there's a calm town of Yudanaka where one can immerse oneself in the rural Japan and enjoy the best local cuisine and relaxing time at local onsen. Whether you are planning a trip to Japan in winter or looking for a nice getaway from busy Tokyo life, this post is for you!

It's the Japanese name for a hot spring that is so abundant in these parts that there's a good chance a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) you will pick, like ours did, would have their own. To those who are familiar with the sauna experience, one doesn't have to explain how indulgent it is to heat the body after many hours outside skiing or hiking in the winter weather. The onsen is a hot spring with its own etiquette so don't be shy and ask before how to behave. Surprisingly, we found many more people speaking English in a small town of Yudanaka than we did in Tokyo...
In public onsens, usually there's a separate bath for men and women as it's usually a naked experience. You're only allowed to carry a small towel, that you place on your head while taking the bath, with you. The Japanese have a different bathing routine, even at home. Before you take a bath, either at a hot spring or in your Japanese bath tub, you are expected to take a thorough shower (think European public swimming pool). If you don't fancy sharing this great experience with total strangers, completely naked, many onsens or rather hotels, offer a private hot spring bath you can have for your own.

To the point. The region of Nagano is famous for the abundance of steaming onsens and the most northern living monkeys in the world - Japanese macaques. They are native to Japan and the Jigokudani Monkey Park is one of the most visited ones where you can meet them. The park is located in the Hell's Valley, named after the steaming hot springs you encounter along the way. You need to leave your car at the parking lot and take about half an hour walk through beautiful forest. The path is quite rough and you should wear hiking footwear. If you happen to go after a rain, it's bound to be muddy so make sure to wear waterproof shoes and trousers you don't care too much about. Still, the walk is great and despite many people visiting, it remains quite a calm experience. Aim at going when it's snowing, the views and experience are so much better.

After reaching the entrance to the onsen area, there's a fee to pay if you'd like to approach the hot spring where the monkeys bathe. You can also encounter them on the way and in other spots in the park. In fact, there's a small, hidden hot spring next to the building right at the end of the path on the left, but you'll need a camera with good zoom to be able to spy on the monkeys there, if there are any. Behind the gates, there's no guarantee either, but they tend to come all year round for food. Winter holds the best views, as the adults hug their young ones in a blizzard or perform their grooming routine in a steaming hot spring. The onsen is human-built, to provide the primates a place to warm up during cold winters. The monkey business extends to the whole park, with frequent fights, young ones chasing each other and an always dynamic setup around. Even though the photos seem very peaceful, during the day, when the park is open, there are dozens of visitors and photographers gathered on every possible side of the onsen to catch these incredibly instagrammable shots.
It's said that the monkeys have a social hierarchy, according to which only the highest born can use the onsen and the rest is banned. Perhaps that's why there happen to be some heated arguments when some approach the steaming bath.

Maybe we were lucky, but the skiing conditions were amazing! The snow was perfectly prepared (it had snowed recently) and the slopes were surprisingly empty. We have visited Shiga Kogen ski station that would be comparable to a slightly aged French ski resort. There are quite a few spots to eat, but the lifts could use some renovation. You only start to realise it's not French Alps when all you can order are noodles and soups and there's home footwear waiting for you in front of the chill zone (that's right, no boots even in public spaces!).
You can buy a skipass for a day, part of a day or few days. Additionally, you can choose if you prefer to ski in the whole Shiga Koga region or rather stick to some part of it. It's so huge that many sections are not connected with each other and if you're coming just for the weekend, there's a good chance you'll need to stick to one or two sections. Only the main vending points allow you to pay by card (and that also not for all the possible tickets) so if you're buying mid-slope (possible to drive to a mid-slope parking spot), make sure you have cash on you. It's also a good idea to check the route in advance - even though in Yudanaka the snow wasn't too abundant, some roads were closed in the higher mountains.

You absolutely have to try a traditional Japanese accommodation, and not only because it's hard to find anything else! It's a great way to get to know how the Japanese spend their vacations. It tends to be family-run and the Japanese are famous for their hospitality, even if in their version you always feel a bit inappropriate.


There are a few rules and quirks you can expect when staying in a traditional Japanese ryokan:
1. Your shoes stay by the entrance and you move around in provided slippers. If you're European or American, there's a good chance the slipper will be half the size you need
2. Usually the bathrooms and toilets are shared. There will be different slippers prepared by the toilet entrance and you should change on your way in and out
3. You will get a traditional tatami room, lined with a distinctly smelling straw floor. There will be no bed but a futon prepared to sleep on. In better establishments, the futon will be laid down by the staff around dinner so if you enter and there's just empty floor, don't be alarmed.
4. Just like in case of the slippers, there's a good chance your futon will have a similar ratio to your body length as the slipper to your foot.
5. There are no "normal" chairs. Both at your room and possible dining room, the tables are low and the chairs force to sit cross legged or on your shins. Better do some yoga before going!
6. Traditionally, after taking a bath at an onsen, the Japanese would have a massage. Nowadays it could be entirely skipped or there might be a massage chair which you can use to relax after your bath.
7. Most probably, there will be some yukata left in your closet. These are what the westerners call a kimono and should be worn after your evening bath. You can wear it for dinner, it's not pijamas! Usually there will be a fresh set left for you every day.
8. Other commonly found item is a tea box to arrange your own tea ceremony. Give it a try!
9. Even if you're the guest, there are a lot of do's and don'ts. Just go along with it, it's part of the experience!
10. And as usual - if you ask and the answer is "Maybe..." or the Japanese original sounding "Chotto..." with a prolonged "ooo" at the end, read resounding "no way".

The mountainous Nagano is known for its beef. Many traditional accommodations will allow you to order a dinner to try a shabu shabu or sukiyaki - both hot pots featuring some superb fatty Japanese beef. Usually, the dinner will consist of many dishes, including pickled vegetables, raw seafood and fish, smoked meats, salads, etc. and will allow you to have a taste of variety of local dishes. In Yudanaka there are many restaurants and bars, ranging from traditional izakaya-style bar-diners with many simple dishes, through great quality sushi places to ramen shops and their steaming bowls to warm up those least accustomed to winter weather.

There are quite a few skiing spots not far from Tokyo that you can reach by train. As usual, the problem with those is that they are extremely packed during winter weekends. Shiga Kogen was also busy, but the fact that the train doesn't get you right to the slope helps. We took a car in southern Tokyo and drove to Yudanaka after work, which took us about 4 hours.
In Japan you will usually be forced to take the tollway. You will only opt to drive the local roads if you have A LOT of time to spare, as they would usually take at least 50% more of your time. That being said, the tolls are quite high. There's a calculator with instructions how to use the Japanese-only website but it is quite troublesome. If you're renting a car in Tokyo, make sure to rent an ETC card. It's a discount card they will insert into the tollway device that will grant you about 30% off the toll price, with additional applicable discounts during holidays and night time, if available. There's another bonus to it - it works, unlike a lot of credit cards, even Japanese ones (don't ask us why), therefore you save on the cash and card fuss. Every time you cross the tollgate, the amount will be displayed but you will only be required to settle it when returning your car at the rental company.

Another perk of driving rather than taking a train is the freedom of choosing a detour! Probably the most famous city in Nagano prefecture is Matsumoto 松本市 with its iconic Matsumoto Castle 松本城. It's a National Treasure of Japan, one of only 5 castles listed there. It's distinctive black exterior is the reason why it's also known as the Crow Castle 烏城. Surprisingly, this 16th century keep still features wooden interiors in good shape. You can access the castle's interior, but be prepared to be forced to take your shoes off! We recommend warm socks in the winter, since the floor is darn cold. Inside you can not only admire the architecture and soak in the old wood's smell, but also appreciate an exposition of weapons and armours.

If you're looking for other destinations to escape Tokyo and you're not scared of driving on the left side, check out our Izu getaway recommendation. And scroll down for some more cute snow monkeys!