Top ten in Gifu, Ishikawa and Toyama
Myojo Temple 妙成寺
Myojo Temple in autumn leaves
You might have never heard of Kanazawa or planned to visit any of the three prefectures listed in the title before and if you're in Japan for the first time for a short term, it might never end up on your to do list. If you find yourself tired with Tokyo mega-city, you've seen Kansai and are looking for a quieter side of Japan, this area to the North-West from Tokyo might be just the place to hit.
1. Chill at a traditional Japanese house
This might be the best what Japan has to offer. There are many old spots, be it private or adjacent to shrines, where you can sit down on tatami mats, look out the open shōji screens and soak in the greenery pouring inside. The most pleasant is summer (July-August), when the outside is quite unbearable and a traditional Japanese house with all windows wide open, allows to recover in its cooler atmosphere. There are few things more therapeutic than these moments you seem to be alone with the tranquillity of a Japanese garden. That is, if you are not surrounded by dozens of tourists doing the same thing. This is why it's worth entering some of the less known spots on your way, even if they are not featured in a guidebook. A one worth a trip on its own is the Kita Clan Residence - a well preserved house of a powerful family from the early 19th century. It's said to be more of a fortress than a house, with many hidden rooms and the property itself build on a lower ground to avoid being seen from the outside. Outside, there's also a small family artefacts museum, located in a nicely contrasting modern building.

Japanese traditional house
Kita Clan Residence
Kita Clan Residence
Traditional Japanese house
Kanazawa, Japan
Tea on Kenroku-en pond
Japanese room with shōji screens and tatami mats
 
2. Food
You might say it's true for all of Japan and you might be right. In fact, for us food is always important - so if it's great, it deserves a spot in top 5. And it definitely does if you come across a small, well-rated place that turns out to be this gourmet experience at not such a gourmet price. Kudos to Fuwari Ajichi for a great twist on a Japanese izakaya that we ended up visiting several times during our short stay.
There's also amazing but very expensive beef bowl in Takayama's Takumiya Yasukawa restaurant, beef nigiri (hell yeah!) or great tonkatsu (not specific to the area though) at Honke Tonton in Kanazawa.

牛丼
Beed bowl or gyudon
そば
Soba buckwheat noodles
Fuwari Ajichi, Kanazawa
Japanese twist on chicken
Fuwari Ajichi
Scallops at Fuwari Ajichi
3. Drone!
You can finally use your drone here without any special permissions! Shiroyona Senmaida Rice Terraces is one of the most famous stops on Noto peninsula, with the terraces pouring from the slope right to the ocean, offering spectacular views, especially at sunset (again).

Ishikawa 石川県
Lost in Ishikawa prefecture
白米千枚田
Shiroyone Senmaida rice terraces
4. Sunsets over rice paddies
Another therapeutic feature of Japanese countryside. The colours reflected in the rice paddies' waters are simply stunning. Especially driving through such landscape is memorable, passing through the traditional Japanese mansions dotted among the fields. Beware of the mosquitoes though!

石川県
Rice paddies on the way to Kanazawa
白米千枚田
 
白米千枚田
 
Sunset in Gifu prefecture
 
5. Kanazawa city 金沢市
Accommodation in Japan is rather expensive. In the most touristy places it's quite difficult to find something reasonable for less than 100€, while there are many nice places closer to a 1,000€ per night (sic!). And by reasonable I mean with a private bathroom. Kanazawa on the other hand, not being a hot spot (and during the pandemics that meant complete closure for outsiders), proved to be very reasonably priced with many modern options. It's also a very good gateway to the surrounding points of interest.
The city itself holds a couple of gems too. The most famous spot is Kenroku-en 兼六園, formerly the outer garden of Kanazawa castle. After Japan Guide website: The name Kenrokuen literally means "Garden of the Six Sublimities", referring to spaciousness, seclusion, artificiality, antiquity, abundant water and broad views, which according to Chinese landscape theory are the six essential attributes that make up a perfect garden. The Japanese were (are?) obsessed with the gardens and Kenroku seems to be one of the country's finest examples. It can be crowded during momijigari (紅葉狩) or hanami (花見) seasons - autumn foliage and spring blooming respectively - as the garden features plants that are famous to visit during both seasons. It's spacious and with a bit of luck you should try to have a green tea at the teahouse in the middle of the pond.

兼六園
Kenroku-en
内橋亭
お茶
Uchihashi-tei, Kenroku-en
or honourable green tea
徽軫灯籠
Kotoji Toro - garden's most famous lantern landmark
Inside the castle walls, there's another garden to enjoy, as well as couple niche museums of arts and crafts.
Additional perk of the pandemic season - a white person is such a rarity in such spots that we were approached by a local newspaper journalist for a quick interview on what on earth are we doing in Kanazawa in June. A quick photo shoot followed but we never heard back from them, which suggests we were not interesting enough to be actually featured in Hokuriku Chunichi Shimbun ;)

尾山神社
Local reporters shocked to see a gaijin in Kanazawa
尾山神社
Oyama Shrine entrance
金沢城
Kanazawa-jō (castle)
尾山神社
Torii (鳥居) marking entrance to a shinto shrine
兼六園
Wedding pics at Kenroku-en
尾山神社
Oyama Shrine
6. Ainokura village 相倉
With a UNESCO heritage status, Ainokura is one of three examples of a village with gassho-zukuri thatched-roof buildings. This is a traditional method of building with only local materials - wood and straw - without use of nails or metal. The villages are in the mountains and the thick roof is a good isolation both during cold winters and hot summers. The houses are still inhabited and maintained by a local community. You can enter a few of them, as they serve partially as museum, or even spend the night. Head about 15min up to the nearby viewpoint to fully appreciate this Swiss-like scenery. The village is quite remote and although you can get there by bus, it's easier if you have a car.

相倉
Ainokura village view
相倉
 
富山県
 
7. Temples and shrines
This one is true wherever you go in Japan, you can always encounter some beautiful and climatic places on your way. Sōji-ji 總持寺 is a beautiful temple at the entrance to Noto peninsula. It was severely damaged in the 2007 earthquake and has been under renovations ever since, scheduled to finish in 2021. When the drilling stops, it's a serene and peaceful spot. They offer guided zen meditation. Interestingly, it can be done in English by a proper monk (not just translation) - we met a German national who's been serving at the temple for over 10 years now. If you're after a true deal but need English, you might want to try there.
Myojo Temple 妙成寺 is even more spiritual. It belongs to a Buddhist sect and the first buildings were built back in the 13th century. A five storey pagoda towers over the complex of buildings and cemeteries, the latter making the most lasting impression with the light streaming through high trees and gravestones stacked with the owners favourite drinks.

總持寺
Sōji-ji entrance
金剛力士
One of traditionally two guardians of a Buddhist temple
妙成寺
Pagoda at Myojo-ji
妙成寺
Myojo-ji eerie cemetery
妙成寺
 
妙成寺
 
8. Noto Peninsula 能登半島
Driving through the winding roads of this northern peninsula is a pleasure on its own. You can stop at many scenic viewing points along the way to fully enjoy the ride. Make a stop at Old Fukuura Lighthouse, a small building atop a cliff, dating back to late 19th century. If you are a fan of rankings of the best, biggest, etc. - this one is the oldest wooden lighthouse in Japan! Aside this fascinating fact, a nice place for photos of the surrounding cliffs and nearby small and old fishing port.

旧福浦灯台
Old Fukuura lighhouse
石川県
 
9. Tsumago-juku 妻籠宿 and Magome-juku 馬籠宿
Two towns restored to its Edo-period shape, showing how a post town of the Nakasendō - route between Kyoto and Tokyo - looked like. You can walk part of the former trade route between Tsumago and Magome by foot. It is said to take about 2-3 hours and there's a bus that can pick you on your way back. Both towns tend to be crowded during public holidays.

妻籠宿
Tsumago-juku old Japanese post town
中山道
Somewhere in these lush forests runs the Nakasendō
10. Takayama 高山市
One of the biggest cities in Gifu prefecture and apparently the biggest in Japan in terms of area (2,177.61 square kilometers). The main attraction is Sanmachi Historic District, featuring several streets of dark wood Edo period houses. It's incredibly touristy so it's better to aim off-season and during the week. There were quite a few people even during the pandemic season. To agree with its trade roots, the district is filled with shops, local breweries and restaurants. The best idea is simply to stroll through its streets and enjoy the somehow old atmosphere.

三町伝統的建造物群保存地区
One of the streets in Sanmachi Historic District
三町伝統的建造物群保存地区
Shōji are screen doors or windows made of paper
高山市さるぼぼ
Sarubobo is a mascot of the region
岐阜県
Lost in Gifu


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Author: Magda, published: 2020-10-25
2843 views | 0 likes
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Lenox Livery
| 2021-09-16, 07:09

Lovely post! I would love to do a road trip around all over the world and visit all these beautiful places! Thanks for the tips and the locals’ insight!
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